1998 was the most under-rated year in recent Tuscan history.  It was sandwiched between the awesome years of 1997 and 1999, and as such, 1998 became the "Black sheep" of the late 1990's.  It was not as universally outstanding as 1997, but it was very very good, and the top tier producers all had nice Brunello offerings for that year.  The middle tier producers had more trouble.

Banfi is an interesting wine estate, in my opinion.  It has one of the largest shares of the U.S. export market amongst it's Tuscan competitiors, yet it is virtually ignored by Robert Parker/Wine Advocate, as well as several other publications.  Part of the problem seems to be the fact that Banfi has been owned by an American family for the last 30 years.  They handle their own exporting and distribution.  By bypassing several layers of the wine bureaucracy, they have made some enemies.  By having an American owner, they have upset many of the purists who believe that the best estates in Montalcino should be handed down within a single family for hundreds of years.  Personally, I love some of the romantic folklore of Tuscany, and I love how some vineyards have been in the hands of a single family for hundreds of years.  Nevertheless, ultimately, all wines are judged by what's in the glass.  And in that regard, Banfi does very well.  They make several blended Super-Tuscan wines, but their strongest offerings remain their Brunellos.  Their least expensive offering is simply labled as Banfi Brunello di Montalcino, and the wine is excellent.  Their most expensive offering is labled as Banfi Poggio al'Oro Brunello.  The middle tier is the Banfi Poggio alle Mura, which is as good, if not better, than every other reserve level Brunello in the marketplace.   You can expect to pay about $100 for a good Brunello reserva from the 1997 and 1999 vintages.  The 1998 Poggio alle Mura would beat many of these hundred dollar bottles in a blind tasting, but can be found for half the cost.  In fact, I picked up this particular bottle in October 2007 when my family was evacuated from our home during the San Diego wild-fires.  We were staying in a motel near the UTC-UCSD area, and stopped into the St. Germain Liqour Store off La Jolla Village Drive.  I saw the wine selling for $44.00, which is a very good price.

The wine is showing very well right now.  In addition to the heavy black fruit on the nose and tha palate, the wine shows a lot of bacon fat and forest floor scents.  The wine is very well balanced, and can be enjoyed with food or as a stand alone drink for those who like well balanced, full bodied wines.

4 stars

 

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