I continue to be impressed with the quality as well as the value of many 1998 St. Emilion wines.  As many readers know, in Bordeaux, "it's all about the vintage".  By that I mean that weather in Bordeaux is much less consistent than in California, and therefore, quality of Bordeaux wines fluctuate from year to year much more widely than it does for California wines.  Most consumers of Bordeaux wines use the published "vintage charts" to determine which vintages are worth purchasing.  The quick reference charts list 1998 as a mediocre year, but this is an oversimplification.  1998 was indeed a mediocre year for the left bank villages of Paulliac, St. Julien, and St. Estephe, but it was an outstanding year for the right bank villages of St. Emilion and Pomerol.

Evaluating Bordeaux wineries is alot like evaluating college students.  The top notch estates  do whatever it takes to make outstanding wine every year, much like a top-notch student does whatever it takes to ace every exam and get an A.  The crummy estates never produce anything worthwhile, even in good years, much like a lousy student will always do lousy on tests and get lousy grades.  What gets interesting with Bordeaux is that the mid-quality estates often times produce mediocre wine in bad weather years, but they crank out extremeley good wine in the good weather years much like a "B-caliber" student will ace an exam if it's not too difficult.  In other words, if the weather is good enough, mediocre wineries will shine like the cream of the crop.  These wines do not carry the stellar reputation and sky high prices of the more esteemed "A-caliber" estates.  This is why I think there are so many good 98 St. Emilions out there selling for attractive prices.

Chateau La Dominique is mostly merlot, with small amounts of Cab Franc and Cab Sauvignon in the blend.  The 1998 is drinking wonderfully right now.  The wine still boasts saturated color, and a nice bouquet of blackberry, spice, and smoke.  This is a voluptuous, sexy  wine that can be enjoyed with dinner, or by itself.

4.25 stars

 

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