Many Americans have limited exposure to Beaujolais.  Unfortunately, such exposure is likely to be restricted to the fruity and uninspiring Beaujolais Nouveau, rather than the more serious Beaujolais Cru wines.

Beaujoais is a region in France.  Technically, it is part of Burgundy, although it has nothing in common with the rest of Burgundy.  "Burgundy proper" grows Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  For all intents and purposes, the only grape grown in Beaujolais is Gamay.  Gamay does not seem to grow anywhere else in the world very well.  The Gamay grapes are harvested each year in September, and then undergo a unique process by which they are just left untouched in a large vat.  The grapes are not crushed.  The grapes at the bottom of the vat burst due to the weight of the other grapes, and then start to naturally ferment and in the process give off heat.  The heat then causes the unbroken grapes at the top of the vat to undergo fermentation inside their skins.  In no other part of the world is this process widespread.  Fermenting unbroken grapes is what gives Beaujolais wines their fresh frutiness.

The grapes from the mediocre vineyards are simply labeled as Beaujolais Nouveau, and are released for sale the third Thursday in November of each year.  The wines are, in essence, only 2 months old.  They are meant to be consumed within one year of release.  The better vineyards are located in 10 "Crus" scattered throughout the northern parts of Beaujolais.  Wines from the 10 different crus are generally better and more complex than Beaujolais Nouveau, and improve with a few years of bottle age.  Wines from the 10 Crus will usually not carry the Beaujolais designation.  They are simply labeled with the name of the winery and the Cru from which the grapes were grown.  Fleurie is one of the more polular crus.  Other popular crus are St. Amour, Julienas, Chiroubles, Chenas, and Moulin-a-Vent.

The 2005 Domaine de Robert Fleurie is a very good but not great Beaujolais.  A bouquet of strawberries and plums is followed by a fruity sweet palate and a short but pleasant finish.

3.25 stars.  $14.99 at the Del Mar Wine Company