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Embruix (de Vall Llach); Priorat, Spain 2003

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This entry was posted on 7/17/2006 6:15 PM and is filed under Spanish Wines, uncommon wines.

Luis LLach is, I am told, a well known singer in Spain who entered the wine business in the 1990's, having purchased a very old vineyard in Priorat with some very old vines (up to 100 years old).  His winery, Vall LLach, produces 3 wines, all of them red.  The self-named Vall LLach Priorat is the top tier wine from the producer, and contains juice from the oldest vines in the vineyard.  The wine is exquisite, but expensive, with prices running about 70 dollars.  Idus de Vall LLach is 2nd on the price ladder, running roughly 55 dollars.  The entry level wine, if I can call it that, from Vall LLach is Embruix, running about 30 dollars.   The Embruix has been hitting very high scores with the wine critics the last few years and represents a great introduction to the art of blending grapes in Priorat, Spain.  The 2003 Embruix de Vall LLach scored 93 on Wine Spectator, and has not yet been reviewed by Robert Parker.  I tried the wine in July 2006 and found it a captivating wine with a medium ruby color, and bouqet of red fruit, blackberry, chocolate, and all-spice.  The wine is a touch hot, running at close to 15% alcohol, but it is well concealed.  The tannins are just a bit rough now, but will soften in less than a year for those who like their tannins ultra-tame.

The wine is a mix of roughly 50% Grenache, and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon,  Merlot, Syrah, and Carignan (mostly just Grenache and Cabernet).  For those who want to try one of the up and coming wines from this part of Spain which is getting a lot of press, I thoroughly recommend the Embruix de Vall LLach.

3.75 stars

Purchased at the Wine Exchange in Orange County for $28.99
 

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Comments

    • 1/16/2008 4:10 PM Alan wrote:
      For what it is worth; I am a part-time lead wine steward at a large import store and have some world-famous "star" chefs as best friends. I tasted this wine recently, and promptly "hogged-up" the 4 bottles the store had left!
      This is a fabulously uncommon wine in a great value category for those not able to afford Vall Llach or Clos Erasmus in a Priorat. It is equally rare to have a wine with such a significant amout of Carignan/Cariñena in it, that is from old enough vines and interesting enough terroir, to derive a wine of such character by their use.
      In addition to Mr. Ezzet's notes (which I found to be right on) I discerned from the ruby juice; a nose filled with dusty cocoa powder, allspice, aromatic Mediterranean woods and this distinctive primary scrub-steppeland broom, (and just barely sooty) which is so beguiling! On the palate in addition to the lovely sweet ripe dark red fruits, cassis, liquorice, blueberry, with subtle nuances of pepper, balsam, tar, and hints of lactics,.. there was that same scrub-steppeland broom with crushed rock minerals as well!
      Don't decant this baby! That "dust from the earth" aroma blows away in about 20 minutes, and those luxurious tannins soften out those complex sooty minerals in the palate after about 40 minutes. (Some might prefer that, but I prefer what you can't get in many other wines) So I'd Vacu-Vin this one now after each pour, or Drink up!
      I'd give it between a 94 and a 97, honestly depending on my demeanor at the time, and/or the food pairing in front of me. Rack of Lamb with a currant-cassis demi-glace, olive oil & herb-roasted baby red potatoes & garlic cloves, a caesar salad and a very dark chocolate mousse, for a Sunday afternoon dinner was the 97!

      4.75+ stars
      Reply to this
      1. 1/20/2008 11:21 AM VinoCritic wrote:

        Alan,

         

        Thanks for the insightful comments about the wine.  Interesting approach to plug the bottle after each pour to save some of the bouquet that fades quickly.  Pairing with a rack of lamb  and garlic roasted potatoes sounds great.  The only question is "how do we get an invitation to the dinner?!"....VC


        Reply to this
    • 1/16/2008 4:12 PM Alan wrote:
      Oh... and it is actually 30% Cariñena, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Garnacha, 15% Syrah, and 5% Merlot!
      Reply to this
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