Concha y Toro "Don Melchor" Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Chile; Maipo Valley; Puente Alto)
This entry was posted on 5/25/2006 8:34 PM and is filed under Argentina and Chile.
This wine has been the darling of Wine Spectator the last few years, pulling in consistent scores in the 95 point range. In fact, the wine has gotten 90 points or better in every vintage from 1999 to 2002 (in Wine Spectator Magazine). The 2003 has not yet been reviewed. Many are calling Don Melchor Chile's best wine, and we all realize that in recent years, Chile has become a legitimate "up and coming region" for production of premium red wines. Prices for this wine have been going up over the years, in conjunction with the strong reviews the wine has been getting at Wine Spectator. The 1996 vintage was selling for 26 dollars retail, and the latest vintages have been list priced at closer to 50 dollars. Despite the pricey list-price, the last few vintages can usually be found for about 35 dollars or less if you shop around. Even at 35 dollars, I have been reluctant to spend that kind of money on Chilean wine. Finally, however, I broke down and decided to give it a try. The wine is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc.
When I first opened the bottle, I was a little disappointed. I expected more. The bouquet was a pleasant black fruit, spice and leather medley, but the wine seemed out of balance on the palate. Too much spice, not enough fruit. Lots of Provencal herbal flavors, and some olive flavors. I had half a glass, sealed it with the Vacu-Vin, and went to bed.
What a difference a day makes. When I returned from work the next day, I uncorked the Don Melchor again and had it with dinner. It was now thoroughly enjoyable. The bouquet had held up nicely, and the wine seemed in much better balance. The strong herbal and olive flavors that dominated the wine the night before were now just slightly present flavors that added complexity to the wine, rather than dominating it. The black fruit and cherry notes were much more appreciated after a day of decanting. The harsh finish from the day before was now a nice finish, albeit still with some untamed tannin. I think this wine has a lot of potential, but it needs time in the cellar, or prolonged decanting if drinking it now. I was intrigued enough with the infantile 2003 that I went out and purchased a slightly more mature 2002 bottle, and I suspect it will drink much better than the 2003, given it's extra year of age. (I will post a review when I try the 2002).
Personally, unless you like somewhat harsh, tannic wines, I would not recommend this wine for immediate consumption. For the money, there are a lot of fruit forward , stunning 2002/2003 California cabs that will knock your socks off right now. However, for those with a cellar and some patience, I have a strong feeling that this wine will handsomely reward those who drink it in 3-5 years
I welcome comments from anyone who has tried Don Melchor with some bottle age.
3 stars for immediate consumption. 3.25-3.5 stars with prolonged decanting. Possible 4 stars with 3-5 years ageing.
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2nd tasting of this wine in Sept. 2006
I had initially tried this wine four months ago and wrote the review listed above. I had the opportunity to try it again in Sept. 2006. The wine was completely different. The vegetal/olive notes that dominated the wine when I first opened it four months ago were gone now. This wine is currently drinking beautifully. Lush black fruits on the nose, and a very approachable fruit forward palate finished off with firm but well integrated tannin. I am going to upgrade this wine's score, as it appears to be developing quite nicely in a rather short period of time. 3.75 stars now, with a possibility of 4 stars with another year of bottle age.