Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Cabernet Bosche; 1995, 1997, 1998, and 1999
This entry was posted on 2/21/2006 9:00 PM and is filed under California Cabernets.
Freemark Abbey is a Napa Valley winery that is underappreciated in my opinion. Their wines are hard to find, but can be located with a little initiative. They make a regular Napa Valley Cabernet, and two super-premium cabernets termed "Sycamore Vineyard", and "Cabernet Bosche Vineyard". I have not had the opportunity to try the Sycamore. The standard Napa offering is a fine wine, but the Bosche offering is often times extra-ordinary. I think that great variability of reviews that this wine has received from one vintage to the next in the mainstream press (often from the same reviewer) does not make much sense. There is not that much variability in the wine from year to year. I have never been disappointed with this wine. Over the years, I have seen the wine sell at great discounts when it has received a lukewarm number from Wine Spectator, and this has represented some great buying opportunities. Other years where the wine received high marks have resulted in prices above retail.
Of all the vintages, the 1995 was without a doubt the best. The wine had Bordeaux like elegance, and a strong complex nose of crushed plums, blackberries and toasted oak. The palate is mixed black fruit, with a hint of smoke and cedar. The tannins melt away on the finish, which can linger pleasantly for 30 seconds. I thouroughly enjoyed this wine and give it 4.25 stars. The 1997 was almost as good. Same characteristics as the 1995, just not quite as robust on the aromatics. I give it 4 stars. The 1998 is interesting. It received the least favorable review in the mainstream press (Wine Spectator), and was from a mediocre vintage for Napa Valley. Because of this, I have seen it selling for 50% discount off the retail price or better. But in my opinion, the wine is only 1/4 point shy of the 1997. I have bought several bottles. It needs no further aging, and is a beautiful wine, with only slighlty less fireworks than the more highly acclaimed vintages. 3.75 stars. Lastly, the 1999, which I last tried in the fall of 2005, was still overpowered by the tannin. I think it will soften over time, but will never be as hedonistically vibrant and the 1995 or 1997. I have put all my bottles of the 1999 in the cellar, and will let them sit 2 years before I take them out to try again. I suspect that with time, the 1999 may approach 4 star status, but if consumed now, I give it a tad over 3.5.
So in summary...
1995 4.25 stars
1997 4 stars
1998 3. 75 stars
1999 3.5 stars plus