Riojas are amongst the most misunderstood wines in the USA.  Most of what gets imported here is pathetic, and represents the bottom of the barrel for Rioja.  Many Americans will have one bottle and vow to never have it again.  Much of the good Rioja never leaves Spain.  To judge Rioja based on the low price imports at the supermarket would be akin to Europeans judging California wine after a taste of Boones Farm Strawberry Hill.  Spanish Rioja wines are based on the tempranillo grape.  The better wines are designated as reserva, and the best of the best becomes Gran Reserva.  Much like vintage port, the Spanish Bodegas will only produce the gran reservas in special years.

Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva 1994 is a wonderful wine.  It was not released until it was fully mature and ready to drink, roughly 6 or 7 years after the vintage.  The Spanish love their wines oaky, and this is no exception.  The wine is lighter than a cabernet in color, and carries a much different, but full bouquet of cherries, wild spices, and toasted oak, with a hint of smoked bacon.  The wine, like most aged riojas, is very smooth and pairs well with meats that would be overpowered by a strong cabernet.  Due youself a favor, and try a nice Gran Reserva Rioja before deciding that the wine is "not for you".  4 stars

 

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